I Crossed the Nullarbor in a Van and Discovered the Loneliest Golf Course on Earth
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- 5 min read
Crossing the Nullarbor Plain isn’t about ticking off attractions. It’s about distance, silence, and learning how to sit with nothingness.
When I drove across the Nullarbor from east to west, Ceduna to Esperance, it marked the final unexplored stretch of Australia for me. After 43,000 kilometres on the road, this was the last piece of the puzzle before completing a full lap of the country in Mitsu, my 1994 Mitsubishi Delica, self-converted into my tiny home on wheels and the best travel companion I could have asked for.
Somewhere along that endless stretch of road, I discovered something I wish I’d known sooner: the world’s longest and loneliest golf course.
What Is the Nullarbor Links?
The Nullarbor Links is officially recognised as the loneliest and longest golf course on Earth, stretching an unbelievable 1,365 kilometres across the Nullarbor Plain in southern Australia.
Instead of one continuous course, it’s made up of 18 holes, each located at a different roadhouse or settlement along the Eyre Highway. Every hole represents a town or stop along the way, turning one of the most remote drives in the country into a slow, playful challenge.
You don’t need to be a professional golfer. In fact, that’s the point.The course was created to encourage travellers to stop, stretch their legs, and have a bit of fun while crossing one of the most monotonous, and mentally demanding, roads in Australia.
You can find the full course map, participating roadhouses and up-to-date details on the official Nullarbor Links website.
Where Does the Loneliest Golf Course on Earth Start and End?
Starts: Ceduna, South Australia
Ends: Kalgoorlie, Western Australia
Each hole has its own character, inspired by the surrounding landscape, red dirt, limestone, wind, and vast open skies. There are no manicured greens here. This is golf, outback-style.
To officially play the course, travellers can buy a scorecard from participating roadhouses and collect stamps along the way. Complete all 18 holes, and you’ve technically played the longest golf course on the planet.
Why It’s One of the Most Unique Things to Do in the Nullarbor
Driving the Nullarbor can feel endless. Long straight roads. Few landmarks. The same horizon hour after hour.
That’s exactly why the Nullarbor Links is such a thoughtful idea.
It gives meaning to the stops. It turns the journey into something interactive. It reminds you that travel doesn’t always have to be productive to be memorable.
Even if you don’t play, just knowing it exists adds a layer of curiosity to the drive. It’s one of those uniquely Australian ideas, slightly absurd, deeply practical, and surprisingly human.
Don’t Forget the Real Star: The Bunda Cliffs
While the Nullarbor Links might be one of the most unusual things to do in the Nullarbor, the real showstopper is nature itself. The Bunda Cliffs rise dramatically from the Southern Ocean, stretching for nearly 200 kilometres along the Great Australian Bight. Standing at the edge feels surreal — sheer limestone walls dropping straight into deep blue water, waves crashing far below, and nothing but wind and sky around you. It’s one of those places that makes you feel small in the best possible way. There are several rest areas along the Eyre Highway where you can camp overnight and wake up close to the cliffs, watching the light change over the ocean. However, it’s important to be responsible: erosion has made parts of the cliff edge unstable, and it is now strictly forbidden to camp too close to the edge due to safety risks. Keep a safe distance, and help protect this fragile landscape so it can remain one of the most unforgettable stops on a Nullarbor road trip.
My Experience Crossing the Nullarbor (And the One Regret)
I only properly researched the Nullarbor Links after I had already crossed the South Australia–Western Australia border. By then, it was too late to turn back and collect the stamps.
I didn’t play a single hole and honestly, I wish I had.
By that point in my journey, the Nullarbor felt symbolic. It wasn’t just another road. It was the closing chapter of a massive adventure, the final kilometres before rolling back into Esperance and realising I had driven a complete loop of Australia.
Knowing there was a small, playful challenge scattered across that vast emptiness made me appreciate the crossing even more, even if I experienced it only in hindsight.
If I ever cross the Nullarbor again, playing the Nullarbor Links will be the first thing I plan. No hesitation. I’ll be chasing that final stamp.
Is the Nullarbor Links Worth It?
If you’re looking for the best things to do in the Nullarbor, this is one of them — not because it’s spectacular, but because it fits the place perfectly.
It’s not about golf. It’s about breaking the drive. It’s about giving meaning to distance. It’s about finding joy in the middle of nowhere.
And sometimes, that’s exactly what travel is about.
The Nullarbor Is More Than a Drive
When people search for things to do in the Nullarbor, they’re usually looking for stops. Attractions. Ways to break the distance.
But the truth is, the Nullarbor isn’t really about doing.
It’s about experiencing.
It’s about long stretches of silence, unexpected discoveries like the Nullarbor Links, dramatic cliffs rising from the ocean, and the strange beauty of emptiness. It’s about watching the kilometres tick by and realising you’re crossing one of the most remote landscapes in the world, completely on your own terms.
Driving from Ceduna to Esperance in Mitsu felt symbolic. After 43,000 kilometres around Australia, this was the final stretch. The last unknown road before completing a full lap of the country in a van I had built with my own hands. There was something poetic about finishing my journey in one of the most isolated places on the continent.
I didn’t play the world’s loneliest golf course.I didn’t collect the stamps.
But I crossed the Nullarbor.
And sometimes, that’s enough.
If I ever find myself driving that endless highway again, I’ll stop for the swings, chase that final stamp, and stand once more at the edge of the Bunda Cliffs, reminded that even in the middle of nowhere, there’s always something waiting to be discovered.
